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Guitar_Techniques Advanced Guitar Techniques posted by iqupo
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The guitar is a versatile musical instrument that allows musical creativity to be expressed very well. Picking notes and strumming chords is great for learning, but it starts to sound mechanical. Here are a few advanced guitar (some call it a GAT) techniques and tricks to make your music more vibrant. As you learn, you will notice that your favorite guitarist uses these very same techniques! Click to view the Basic Guitar Lessons if needed.
The Bend is by far the most used guitar trick in the book. As this picture shows, the trick is to push the string with your fingers while fretting it (bending the string). Usually you bend strings with your ring finger, using your middle and index fingers to help. The string tension increases, changing the sound of the note. If you pick the note and then bend the string, you get the classic wail of the Blues guitar.
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A very common technique to break up a monotonous stretch of music is the Vibrato. At any point where a note is held (usually for more than one beat, though it works on single beats as well) - instead of leaving your finger on the fret to hold the note, rapidly wiggle the finger (up and down, or side to side). This adds a wavering quality to the note and gives it some feeling. There are many ways to add vibrato, in fact it gives many guitarists their "trademark" sound. BB King for example, does what is called the "Butterfly vibrato" where he extends the other (unused) fingers and wiggles his entire wrist.
Palm Muting is another way to get distinctive sounds out of your guitar. Although it works best on an electric guitar with distortion effects - it can also be used on acoustic guitars. Simply allow the palm of your right hand to touch the strings while you (or they) are strumming or picking the strings - this creates a flat sound or thump (depending on your gear). On some acoustic guitars that have excessive bass (the fat E string sounds too loud), you can partially palm mute by only touching the high E string - this will reduce the bass effect when you are strumming chords.
Guitars are normally tuned to E-B-G-D-A-E notes - however you can also use Alternate Tuning. This changes the open notes for one (or more) strings, completely changing the sound and of course the way you play notes. One popular alternate tuning is the Drop D tuning, where the high E string (fattest E string) is tuned down to D instead of E. Some rock and blues songs use alternate tuning - if you are trying to play one of those songs from tab or sheet music, it would be almost impossible to do so without changing the tuning of your guitar.
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Guitar tab notation is shown here, bends are indicated with an upward arrow (and may also state how much to bend FULL, 1/2 etc). Pushing the string up a little (half bend) will change the sound by one fret (half step), pushing it more (full bend) will raise the pitch by two frets (one step), and once your fingers are stronger - pushing the string all the way will raise the pitch by three frets (one and one-half step). Be warned however, bending strings can be PAINFUL at first, so practice lightly till your fingertips get de-sensitized.
The Hammer On is another popular trick. When a note is following a previous note by one or more frets, instead of picking the second note - slam your finger down on the next required fret (while holding the previous note). This changes the note to the fret you have hammered on, and gives a forceful tone to the change. The complementary technique to this is the Pull Off, which works in reverse. When you have a note that precedes a previous note by one or more frets, fret the second note while keeping your previous finger down (don't pick the string) - then forcefully "pull" back the previous finger. The trick is to remove the finger rapidly so it doesn't muffle the string vibration - the result is a forceful note change to the next note. In guitar tab, hammer on and pull offs are marked with an arc linking the frets - if its going to a higher numbered fret then its a hammer on, if its going to lower numbered fret its a pull off. A combination of both the hammer on and pull off is called the Trill - where you rapidly hammer on and pull off on the same fret several times (keeping the first finger in place throughout). This creates an undulating sound that combines both the notes.
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Normally you can fret upto 4 strings with your four fingers on the left hand, but some chords require you to fret all six strings (such as the F chord). In order to do this, you have to use your index finger to form the Barre or Bar - and lay it flat across the strings and push down. This trick also allows you to create alternate tuning on-the-fly, since your finger behaves like the nut at the top of your guitar neck. You can form all kinds of chords behind the bar, and it is very popular in many songs. Barring with the finger can be tricky, so metal or glass Slides are available to put over your finger - and it makes things a little easier. Some formats of music (and even some guitars) are built entirely around slides, and is called Slide Guitar.
These are only a few advanced guitar techniques, click if you need a refresher on Beginner Guitar Lessons.
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Guitar_Care Guitar Care posted by iuiol
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Guitars are sensitive instruments and require attention and care. Acoustic guitars are very delicate since they are essentially hollow wooden boxes. Although this may seem obvious, it has be to said: never drop your guitar or bang it around! Electric guitars are a lot sturdier, but even they require care. The worst enemy of a guitar is humidity. The strings on a guitar are putting constant stress on both the neck and the body (where the bridge is attached). Excessive humidity (summertime or rainy weather) will swell the wood and cause bowing. Insufficient humidity (winter or desert dryness) will dry out the wood and crack the glue that holds the seams together. The ideal level for any guitar is 50% humidity. In areas where extreme changes to humidity occur, it is recommended that the guitar be kept in a hard case (which has packing shaped to the guitar size) to reduce the amount of air exposure. Otherwise, a humidifier/de-humidifier should be used in the guitar room to maintain a consistent humidity level.
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You should clean your guitar each time after you play it. The oils and sweat from your hands get deposited onto the strings and wood, causing corrosion of the strings and damage to the glossy finish on the wood. A soft cloth should be used to wipe down the wood (neck and body), and an alchohol swab can be used to wipe the strings (do NOT get the alchohol on the body!). Guitar stores sell special cloth and wipes for this purpose, it is best to get a suitable product that you know will work well on your guitar. This may seem obvious, but: NEVER wash your guitar! You will eventually have to change the strings on your guitar(s).
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Once humidity is being monitored or controlled, the best place for a guitar that used often is on a guitar stand. A stand will support the guitar properly by its neck and body, preventing uneven pressure (under its own weight) from causing the wood to bow. A guitar on a stand looks way cool too, and its easy to just grab it and play whenever you get the urge. A word of caution on electric guitars on stands - NEVER leave the amp turned on when the guitar is on a stand next to it. Sound (even if its inaudible to you) from the amp causes the strings to vibrate, which in turn causes the pickups to send a signal to the amp, which again sends more sound to the strings (a feedback loop). Eventually both your amp and guitar will be fried. For high end guitars that are NOT used often (especially when you have many guitars), the best place for it is in a hard case. Cheap guitars may cost less than the price of a hard case, so it would not really be worthwhile. Note that for long term storage of guitars, you should loosen the strings and store it in a hard case - if the wood expands the tension of the strings would cause the neck to bow, or would pull the saddle out of the body.
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The life of strings depends on how much you play and how you play. Whenever you (or them) hear the sound of your guitar starting to go dull, or if it constantly goes out of tune, you may need new strings. Always change all the strings at the same time - an exception could be if you break one string soon after a string change, then change only that string. When you are changing all the strings, you have the opportunity to do some more cleaning and maintenance. You CAN remove all the strings at one time - but you must get the new strings back on promptly (don't put it off for another day). If your acoustic-electric guitar has an active pickup that uses batteries that fit through the soundhole, change the battery while you have the strings off. But mainly you have the opportunity to clean the fretboard - use a damp paper towel folded flat and gently wipe the frets and the fretboard between the frets. Do NOT drip any water on the fretboard, just a slightly damn paper towel is all that is needed. Immediately wipe it off with a dry paper towel, ensuring no water is left anywhere. All guitars will need adjustments and/or repairs at some point in their lives. Electric guitars need to have their intonation adjusted frequently, most have a simple screw to set this and you may be able to figure it out from the guitar owners manual and using a tuner. For more complex repairs and adjustments, it is strongly recommended that you take it to a professional guitar repair shop. Neck adjustments are tricky things to accomplish, as are adjustments to the saddle, bridge or string action. To return to the guitar information page click here for Guitar Info.
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acoustic_guitar Various acoustic guitar types posted by efpxuujk-
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There are many different acoustic guitar bodies available today. The most important deciding factor would be the style of music you hope to accomplish, secondary to this would be comfort, and lastly aesthetics. The guitar has to sound right, feel right, and look right - when its in your hands!
Auditorium: One of the largest guitar bodies being made today. As the name implies, the sound emitted should fill an auditorium. Keep in mind, larger bodied guitars lose their projection capability, the sound seems to become lost in the larger cavity of the instrument. Yes, it will have a large sound, and tremendous bass response, but seems to lose in projection. Great for fingerstyle.
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Dreadnought: Originated around 1916, uses the standard X Bracing. This is the size of choice when flatpicking, characterized by a booming bass and tremendous projection, the Dreadnought is the guitar of choice for all Bluegrass guitarists. This size guitar also serves well for backing up fiddlers due to the booming bass end. The Dreadnought is the most popular sized guitar made today (and yesterday). Many popular artists have used the Dreadnought to good effect both in fingerpicking and flatpicking idioms. Just the same, this wouldn't be the ideal choice for the serious fingerpicker. Even so, the Dreadnought would be the most versatile guitar to fill most any medium and style of music played. First choice for flatpicking, works well for fingerstyle too, the most versatile guitar for all mediums and genres.
Orchestra: Little larger than the 00 and 000 models described below, the OM shares many of the same characteristics as the 00 and 000 models. New variations are now available, such as the OM Jumbo which larger than the standard OM but smaller than the Dreadnaught.
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Grand Concert: A Grand Concert size is more balanced, designed to minimize overtones on stage, does not have a boomy bass or the usual reverberation found in Dreadnought-sized guitars.The Grand Concert seems to have a more focused sound than an Auditorium size, if you're looking for a bigger sound, and are not concerned as much about projection, the Auditorium size will fill your needs, the Grand Concert is slightly more balanced with more projection due to the slightly smaller body size. Both the Auditorium and the Grand Concert are designed for Fingerpicking first, flatpicking can also be accomplished on both sizes, however, for bluegrass flatpicking, settle for nothing but a Dreadnought. Excellent for fingerstyle, still works for flatpicking outside of bluegrass.
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Smaller bodied guitars include the OO and OOO styles. These guitars offer tremendous balance from bass to treble. And, they also have amazing projection. They do not have any bottom end to speak of, but, this would be the trade-off for projection and balance. Great for fingerstyle and seems to have a more trebly tonal range, a great guitar (also called the AXE since the shape of electric guitars are somewhat axe-y) to offset other Dreadnought guitars within a jam session.
The final size, which isn't a steel string design, is the Classical sized guitar. This body size is specifically designed for nylon strings and is almost always fingerpicked. On rare occasion, players will flatpick this style of guitar - such as Willie Nelson and Jose Feliciano has aptly done. And, when guitar is played in an Orchestra setting, the nylon is the guitar of choice.
There's also the question of shallow or deep, all Dreadnoughts, and Classicals, have a deep body, more depth adding to the overall cavity of the instrument - this usually contributes to a deeper resonance and more resounding bass shallow guitars, those with less depth on the body, will have more projection and focus while also having a better balance from bass to treble. Shallow body styles are normally found in the Concert size or OOO/OO sizes.
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