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Guitar_Techniques : Advanced Guitar TechniquesOn Blog of Stuff .com |
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| Guitar_Techniques : Advanced Guitar Techniques posted by iqupo | ||||
The guitar is a versatile musical instrument that allows musical creativity to be expressed very well. Picking notes and strumming chords is great for learning, but it starts to sound mechanical. Here are a few advanced guitar techniques and tricks to make your music more vibrant. As you learn, you will notice that your favorite guitarist uses these very same techniques! Click to view the Basic Guitar Lessons if needed.
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Guitar tab notation is shown here, bends are indicated with an upward arrow (and may also state how much to bend FULL, 1/2 etc). Pushing the string up a little (half bend) will change the sound by one fret (half step), pushing it more (full bend) will raise the pitch by two frets (one step), and once your fingers are stronger - pushing the string all the way will raise the pitch by three frets (one and one-half step). Be warned however, bending strings can be PAINFUL at first, so practice lightly till your fingertips get de-sensitized.
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A very common technique to break up a monotonous stretch of music is the Vibrato. At any point where a note is held (usually for more than one beat, though it works on single beats as well) - instead of leaving your finger on the fret to hold the note, rapidly wiggle the finger (up and down, or side to side). This adds a wavering quality to the note and gives it some feeling. There are many ways to add vibrato, in fact it gives many guitarists their "trademark" sound. BB King for example, does what is called the "Butterfly vibrato" where he extends the other (unused) fingers and wiggles his entire wrist.
Palm Muting is another way to get distinctive sounds out of your guittar. Although it works best on an electric guitar with distortion effects - it can also be used on acoustic guitars. Simply allow the palm of your right hand to touch the strings while you are strumming or picking the strings - this creates a flat sound or thump (depending on your gear). On some acoustic guitars that have excessive bass (the fat E string sounds too loud), you can partially palm mute by only touching the high E string - this will reduce the bass effect when you are strumming chords.
Guitars are normally tuned to E-B-G-D-A-E notes - however you can also use Alternate Tuning. This changes the open notes for one (or more) strings, completely changing the sound and of course the way you play notes. One popular alternate tuning is the Drop D tuning, where the high E string (fattest E string) is tuned down to D instead of E. Some rock and blues songs use alternate tuning - if you are trying to play one of those songs from tab or sheet music, it would be almost impossible to do so without changing the tuning of your guitar. |
Normally you can fret upto 4 strings with your four fingers on the left hand, but some chords require you to fret all six strings (such as the F chord). In order to do this, you have to use your index finger to form the Barre or Bar - and lay it flat across the strings and push down. This trick also allows you to create alternate tuning on-the-fly, since your finger behaves like the nut at the top of your guitar neck. You can form all kinds of chords behind the bar, and it is very popular in many songs. Barring with the finger can be tricky, so metal or glass Slides are available to put over your finger - and it makes things a little easier. Some formats of music (and even some guitars) are built entirely around slides, and is called Slide Guitar.
These are only a few advanced guitar techniques, click if you need a refresher on Beginner Guitar Lessons. |
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| Basic_Guitar_Lessons : Basic Guitar Lessons posted by tiua-e | ||||
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This is a very basic introduction to learning to play the guitar. The first step, obviously, is to obtain a guitar - click to read about acoustic or electric guitar selection. Start by finding a quiet spot where you can practice without being disturbed (and not disturb others in your home); and a comfortable chair (without arm rests). If you have a small footstool or hard box, keep it handy as well - some people prefer to raise their right leg (where the guitar rests). Forget about playing standing up when you are learning, put the guitar strap away for now. If you have an electric guitar, plug in the amp and connect your guitar.
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If you intend to use a pick, grip it lightly in your right hand, between your thumb and forefinger. Your forefinger and thumb should make a "cross", and the tip of the pick should be sticking out just a little bit (enough to hit the strings without your fingers brushing them). Grip the pick tightly enough so it doesn't fall out, but not so tightly that your fingers will start to hurt. If you don't want to use a pick, just use the the outside of your right hand thumb for now - be sure to cut your fingernails short to avoid hurting yourself. Lean forward just a little, so you can look over the guitar and see the frets and soundhole (or pickups). The guitar itself should be perfectly vertical - don't tilt the guitar to look down.
For your first strum (drum roll!), leave your left hand fingers in the air (don't fret any strings yet) while balancing the guitar neck in the V of your thumb and forefinger, and rotate your right hand wrist so the pick (or your thumb) strikes all six guitar strings from the top to the bottom (the TOP most string nearest your face is the SIXTH string, and the string closes to the ground is the FIRST string). Do it slowly at first, listen to all the strings ring out. That was your first strum - although it may not sound like much. As you strum by rotating your wrist, you will realize that it is quite a stretch to strike all six strings just with your wrist action. Now try it by moving your arm ONLY from your elbow along with the rotation of your wrist - must easier, isn't it. So keep in mind, your wrist action is what you need to strike the strings (not by moving your whole arm) - and your arm moves at the elbow to position your wrist over the string that you wish to strike. Strum the top most 6th string (thickest string, nearest your face) downward once, recover the pick back to position above the string (without hitting the string on the way back up). Now nudge your arm (from the elbow) down a fraction of an inch so your pick is in position over the next string (5th string) and pick it. Recover the pick back up without touching the string on the way back, and nudge your arm from the elbow into position over the fourth string - and keep going till you reach the bottom most (first string). Repeat the process backwards, coming back up to the sixth string. When hitting the string, you only need a little pressure - don't get carried away and try to slam the strings to get more volume. The important thing is to pick only the string you are aiming for, and only hit it on the DOWN STROKE (not on the recovery when you bring the pick back up). Try this exercise for a few minutes every day to get your hand and wrist used to the motion. |
After you get some practice with the downstroke described above, do the same thing but this time allow the pick to hit the string on the recovery, this is the UP STROKE. So you will hear two notes (downstroke and upstroke). If you have a metronome (which is strongly recommended) set it to a speed that you find comfortable and strike once on each beat (click) - once going down, once coming up; move arm from elbow to next string and keep going across all the strings from the sixth to the first string and back up. Timing is a critical element to playing any music - the metronome provides an audible "click" that indicates the beat - you want your note to ring out exactly on the beat. After a few minutes of acceptable accuracy, turn the metronome speed up by 10 and keep practicing. Strumming and picking strings is vital - it is the whole basis of guitar playing. The sooner your hands and brain get the rhythm and motion figured out, the easier it will be for you to begin playing "real" music.
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Use your metronome during the fretting exercises, again, timing is everything in music. Once you have control over your fretting fingers, slide your left hand down a bit and start the fretting exercise from the second fret, then the third and keep going till you reach the last fret that is reachable - then repeat going back to the first fret. Use your ears, they are the best self-test tool you can get. Notes should ring out clearly and as you speed up the metronome (by 10 after a few exercises), the notes will start to blend together as you practice (think DO-RE-MI-FA-SO-LA-TI). Don't try to go too fast, slow and steady is good for learning - speed will come with practice and patience.
Always ensure your guitar is in tune before practicing - guitars frequently go out of tune as the strings stretch out, and as the weather changes (humidity affects the wood, swelling or shrinking the neck). You should have a guitar stand, and keep your guitar on it (weather and humidity permitting) so it is easy to just grab it and start playing whenever you have a free moment. After each practice session, you (or them) should wipe your guitar down with a dry soft cloth to remove the oils and sweat your hands and fingers deposit on the strings and body. If you have an electric guitar, remember to turn OFF the amp to avoid damaging both the guitar and the amp. It is a good practice to also unplug the cable from your electric guitar when not in use, this saves your equipment in case you forget to turn the amp off - and poses less of a risk that someone may trip over it (which could destroy your guitar, and possibly their teeth). |
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| acoustic_guitar : Various acoustic guitar types posted by efpxuujk- | ||||
![]() There are many different acoustic guitar bodies available today. The most important deciding factor would be the style of music you hope to accomplish, secondary to this would be comfort, and lastly aesthetics. The guitar has to sound right, feel right, and look right - when its in your hands! Auditorium: One of the largest guitar bodies being made today. As the name implies, the sound emitted should fill an auditorium. Keep in mind, larger bodied guitars lose their projection capability, the sound seems to become lost in the larger cavity of the instrument. Yes, it will have a large sound, and tremendous bass response, but seems to lose in projection. Great for fingerstyle. |
![]() Grand Concert: A Grand Concert size is more balanced, designed to minimize overtones on stage, does not have a boomy bass or the usual reverberation found in Dreadnought-sized guitars.The Grand Concert seems to have a more focused sound than an Auditorium size, if you're looking for a bigger sound, and are not concerned as much about projection, the Auditorium size will fill your needs, the Grand Concert is slightly more balanced with more projection due to the slightly smaller body size. Both the Auditorium and the Grand Concert are designed for Fingerpicking first, flatpicking can also be accomplished on both sizes, however, for bluegrass flatpicking, settle for nothing but a Dreadnought. Excellent for fingerstyle, still works for flatpicking outside of bluegrass. |
![]() Dreadnought: Originated around 1916, uses the standard X Bracing. This is the size of choice when flatpicking, characterized by a booming bass and tremendous projection, the Dreadnought is the guitar of choice for all Bluegrass guitarists. This size guittar also serves well for backing up fiddlers due to the booming bass end. The Dreadnought is the most popular sized guitar made today (and yesterday). Many popular artists have used the Dreadnought to good effect both in fingerpicking and flatpicking idioms. Just the same, this wouldn't be the ideal choice for the serious fingerpicker. Even so, the Dreadnought would be the most versatile guitar to fill most any medium and style of music played. First choice for flatpicking, works well for fingerstyle too, the most versatile guitar for all mediums and genres. Orchestra: Little larger than the 00 and 000 models described below, the OM shares many of the same characteristics as the 00 and 000 models. New variations are now available, such as the OM Jumbo which larger than the standard OM but smaller than the Dreadnaught. |
![]() Smaller bodied guitars include the OO and OOO styles. These guitars offer tremendous balance from bass to treble. And, they also have amazing projection. They do not have any bottom end to speak of, but, this would be the trade-off for projection and balance. Great for fingerstyle and seems to have a more trebly tonal range, a great guitar to offset other Dreadnought guitars within a jam session. The final size, which isn't a steel string design, is the Classical sized guitar. This body size is specifically designed for nylon strings and is almost always fingerpicked. On rare occasion, players will flatpick this style of guitar - such as Willie Nelson and Jose Feliciano has aptly done. And, when guitar is played in an Orchestra setting, the nylon is the guitar of choice. There's also the question of shallow or deep, all Dreadnoughts, and Classicals, have a deep body, more depth adding to the overall cavity of the instrument - this usually contributes to a deeper resonance and more resounding bass shallow guitars, those with less depth on the body, will have more projection and focus while also having a better balance from bass to treble. Shallow body styles are normally found in the Concert size or OOO/OO sizes. |
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